If someone were to ask what is the weirdest, most adventurous, (slightly frightening) dishes I’ve eaten in Melbourne this year, or even this decade, without hesitation, it is Duck Balut. Whilst not everyone’s cup of tea (a fertilised duck embryo) this Filipino delicacy/ street food, is on offer at Askal, the authentic modern passion project by some serious Filipino hospitality guns. The dish embodies their culinary heritage and like their entire menu, adds creative techniques and a new age spin. I can’t say I’m jumping for joy at the peculiar taste, and the thought of eating it gives me the iccks (I’ve now had it twice, first time and last time). Nonetheless the tempura crisp encasing, with a sweet sticky caramel butterscotch, and tangy fresh lime, I could eat forever.
And what I also do appreciate, is that this restaurant, is more than just a mediocre take on traditional food, it’s simply exceptional.
The Design – Filipino glam in Melbourne’s CBD
Like any typical Saturday night in the CBD it’s bustling. Walking into Askal on Exhibition Street keeps the vibe alive and kicking. The interior is industrial glam with high ceilings, decadent chandeliers made from stunning curved shells transported from Manila. Cosy mint blanquettes and rustic exposed brick. It’s one of those intentional mismatches, where on paper it may appear confused, but in practice magically works.
Drinks with a glitzy twist
The bar stares in delight, and a carefully crafted contemporary cocktail list with traditional ingredients entices. Would be rude not to dabble, particularly when I’m told it’s World Martini day. I’ve had a fair few in my life, but safe to say, the ‘paksiw Gilda’ is the most eclectically unique and memorable. A finely stemmed chilled coupe is filled with a perfectly shaken crystal-clear innocuous potion. Beside it, a single glitzy dangly earring, made of a white anchovy, pickled ginger, onion and olive skewer. Taken from the words from their cocktail guru, the combination is ‘salty, silky, and dangerously sippable.’
The Menu – Filipino food with an artistry touch
It’s not just the Balut that gets mention for creativity and complexity. A green semi-circle of cleansing pickled cucumber has a myriad of elements. Filled with a mushy mung bean paste earthy saltbush and macadamia and jalapeno guisado (spicy kick at the end). My education for the week – Did you know crabs have ‘fat’? I thought the sea crawlers were simply meat and shell but this emulsifier ‘crab fat’ is used to lift the ‘Alavar’ (Filipino curry sauce), a mesmerising sour rich party of flavours that accompany the giant grilled Skull Island prawns. Our humble and softly spoken waitstaff mentions we could order the additional ‘Bloomwoods croissant de otap’. A crisp snail shell pastry is the ultimate indulgence to rip and mop up the intangible flavour profile notes from the crustacean juices.
Sisig is a dish that divides and conquers. A three phases approach, of boiling, broiling and grilling its traditionally made out of pork jowl and ears, and chicken liver. The plate arrives in Filipino the way, sizzling and steaming with wonderful robust powerful aromas, and a fresh juicy sour calamansi (traditional Filipino fruit, reminiscent of a kumquat). Except for one big difference. This version is vegan. Hearing the table next to us with a gentleman from the Philippines saying ‘Mushrooms? my ancestors would be rolling in their graves’, I politely insist he try it and I’ll never forget the look on his astonished face after he did.
Askal is a destination that honours culinary tradition, practices authenticity and pushes innovative boundaries. No matter where you’ve dined in Melbourne or the world, nothing is quite like it.
What we’re addicted to? Exciting, unique, inspiring creativity by talented chefs, who passionately display their proud heritage through culinary delights.
What we need to be more Addicted? A glossary of terms. Spent too much time on my phone googling every second word on the menu to find out what it was . (And just quietly a vegan version of the balut)
Askal – 167 Exhibition St, Melbourne VIC 3000
Sunday – Wednesday 5.30 – 10.30pm
Thursday – Saturday – 12 – 2.30pm 5.30- 10.30pm
