With two long weekends tag teaming in April, there are only a handful of business days between Easter Eggs and ANZAC biscuits. Aussies are experts at capitalising on leave opportunities so with this holiday feeling around Morena’s mini-fiesta is a destination degustation for lovers of Latin.
The Brunch de Carnaval series running Saturdays through Autumn is Executive Chef Alejandro Saravia’s idea of Carnaval here at home. The origin story of the festival celebrated throughout Latin America was to mark the end of winter until Spanish and Portuguese Colonialisation added a lent twist.
The Location and vibe
In a word, the experience is classic. From the location, smack in the middle of the heritage listed GPO Martin Place, the sandstone icon with original finishes, tall ceilings and warm lighting air timeless. Half of the space is colonnade seating, which is designed for sun-soaked people watching and is reminiscent of dining in any Latin Plaza Mayor. This sunny disposition is attracting a lot of interest and fills up for the lunch sitting.
Front of House Camilla Uer who oversees all of the Morena spaces is a delightful and knowledgeable host, sharing the story of the team and food focus with us. We are set up with two glasses of the NV Cavedon ‘Adelia’ Prosecco which is remarkably similar in style to methode traditionale champagne. Its cliché to say, but it’s true, nothing starts off a long lunch better than bubbles.
The Cuisine
One thing Saravia is renowned for is showcasing diverse cuisines from across Latin American cultures, and with Head Chef Samuel Rivas flair for street food, the Brunch de Carnaval menu is quintessential Latin dishes. It starts cheesy, in a good way, with tequenos and beef empanadas. These crowd favourites are savoury and crispy and well balanced with chimichurri. It is the prawns in black aguachile with house made corn tostadas that we rave about. Take some perfectly poached prawns dressed in a smokey adobe sauce with some avo and cucumber on a crunchy tostada for a textural treat. Opt in for a couple of the briny, sweet Sydney Rock with a glass of the Perez Cruz ‘Lingal’ Rosé to finish the starters, take a pause between courses and continue people watching.
It’s recommended we move onto the Montevideo ‘Festivo’ Malbec for the main event, who can go past an Argentinian Malbec? It is fruit-forward with a little tannin symmetry and very smooth. A platter of seared skewers of Picanha, Chorizo, Morcilla and Chicken arrive. Nicely charred and smokey. The sides of quinoa hummus, drizzled with bright green parsley oil, a vibrant Tomato Solterito salad and hot fried Argentinian flatbread make the table a colourful spread. Once again, a diverse range of foods and flavours are in front of us, it is quality produce and delicious. Fans of flans, it’s a non-negotiable to wrap up with the Suspiro a la Limena. Made with condensed milk, scented with cinnamon and topped with teeny meringues, it’s sublime.
I haven’t even got to the part that this is a bottomless brunch. The ‘bottomless’ can be known for quantity over quality, more of the same dishes and stock standard drinks. That is not the case with Brunch de Carnaval, you will love the variety and the calibre of wines. This street food feature from Morena is anything but pedestrian.
What are we addicted to?
The colonnade is the ultimate trans-seasonal spot for a relaxing long lunch.
What are we need to be more addicted to?
More of those crispy tostadas please!
Saturdays 1200-1430 for a limited time
Morena Sydney
Sydney GPO
1 Martin Place, Sydney 2000
