Hotel Review: Bellevue Palace, Bern- Swiss Grandeur Meets Pollies, History and Mountain Views

“Honey, we’re staying at the hotel whose walls, rooms and bars have laid witness to politics, business deals and intrigue,” I whisper to Mr G as jump on a train from Geneva to Berne. Bellevue Palace is the grand dame of Bernese hospitality hosting presidents, prime ministers, and the occasional rock star since 1913, and frankly, after our stay, I can see why they all keep coming back.

The Story Behind the Palace

This isn’t just another luxury hotel – it’s Switzerland’s unofficial diplomatic headquarters. Perched majestically on the banks of the River Aare with the snow-capped Alps providing a theatrical backdrop, Bellevue Palace has witnessed more backroom deals and international handshakes than any other hotel in Europe. The guest registry reads like a who’s who of global power from Nelson Mandela, Gorbacheve, to stars like Prince. All drawn by the promise of discretion, impeccable service, and rooms that could start – or end – wars.

The palace began life as a private residence before transforming into the political nerve centre we know today. Every corridor could whisper secrets, every dining room has hosted momentous conversations, and every suite has probably changed the course of history. It’s intoxicating to think that your morning coffee might be served in the same spot where peace treaties, Hollywood legends and deals were sketched on napkins.

The Arrival

It takes us just over two hours on the train from Geneva to Bern. We have an easy 10 minutes walk on sealed pathways no bumpy pavements here! Passing Swiss government buildings, shopping areas and a market square bustling with local producers. Nothing quite prepares us for the moment we swing into the doors of Bellevue Palace itself – positioned impossibly with views from a 1940s Hollywood movie, where Greta Garbo could be drinking a martini or Marilyn Monroe’s billowing skirts blowing in the alpine breeze.

A rotating door means only one at a time can enter, and Mr G and I each have our moment to say “wow.” Unlike many hotels with over a century of heritage, our first line of sight isn’t a traditional lobby barricade – that’s off to our right. Instead, we’re greeted by a large lounge with a stunning flower display, a domed glass atrium flooded with light and the gentle hum from people drinking and chatting. In the distance, I can see another restaurant and an arch dining area to the views beyond. 

Locaton: Heritage meets Iconic Position

The hotel’s location contributes to this sense of significance. Positioned at the heart of Bern’s Old Town (itself a UNESCO World Heritage site), at the intersection of Swiss political power and cultural heritage yet footsteps from shopping, the river and the trains. From different hotel windows, we can see the Federal Palace where the Swiss government meets, the impressive Casino, while the medieval streets below remind us that this country has been mastering the art of discrete influence for centuries.

Check-in

With only two staff at reception – one busy with guests, the other with her head down – we wait ten minutes before being greeted and waved over. But here’s the thing: we got incredibly lucky with a fantastic online sale that scored us our room at 50% discount, so it’s definitely worth signing up for their newsletters. They go one better and upgrade us. Woo!

Tower Suite 407: Our Alpine Palace

Lifts take us to the fourth floor through beautiful, light and airy corridors plush with luxury carpets and sofas (just in case we need a rest on the way to our room…).

We swipe our key cards and the door opens to our home from home for the next 48hrs.. Holy crap! Our suite has views out to the Bernese Alps. We can see the slopes and peaks of the Bernese Oberland, the triangular Jungfrau and the imposing Eiger in the far distance. This is a front-row seat to nature’s most spectacular theatre which unfolds and changes hour by hour. We can even see the cows hugging the mountain slopes chasing the afternoon sun.

I understand why world leaders choose this particular perch.  We walk through our entrance corridor (bathroom to the right) and it opens up into the lounge which could be a scene out of Bridgerton. 

The interior design is  a blend of respecting its  traditional sense: antique furniture, paintings, thickly carpeted rooms, huge marble bathrooms with my favourite Molton Brown minis! The second room (formerly a bedroom with a shower ensuite) has been reinvented as a home gym compete with elliptical and weights, though sadly no work out mat.

The formal lounge is at the centre of our suite with dining tables and chairs, art on the walls and a sofa. I only wish it had a window seat or balcony where I could easily watch the world unfold below me. Instead we choose to open the bay windows, breathe in the mountain air and pull a chair over to enjoy the view.  

The master bedroom is to our left. It’s graced with a huge king size bed, surrounded by windows that make us feel like we are floating above the city. There is a marble ensuite complete with a soaking tub which sadly isn’t positioned to capture those mountain vistas. 

Dining: Noumi Bar & Grill

After a walk around the old town, we head back and get dressed for dinner. We peek into the iconic The Bellevue Bar, a regular haunt for deal makers and pollies. On the same level is the ‘Le Fumoir’ , a smoking bar (wild concept for Aussies!) which is dedicated to the connoisseurs of  fine tobacco. It’s all dark woods, moody leathers and swagger. 

All this is very serious, grown up stuff – so the real surprise restaurant is downstairs at Noumi Bar & Grill. Given the hotel’s vibe I wasn’t expecting a modern funky Asian restaurant.  We walk into a different universe from the traditional elegance of the rest of the hotel – If it wasn’t summer, there would be a DJ spinning tunes in a booth, open plan kitchen, speakeasy lighting and a buzzing atmosphere. 

Lucky us- we arrive for the first day of the outdoor pop up. Swiss people spend much of their life with the cold, so when for three months the sun arrives, there is an explosion of energy and thirst for outdoor dining. We join in the fun by taking up seats across the road on an elevated dining area with a front row seat to those mountains. 

To celebrate our first night we kick off with a glass of Jeeper Blanc de Blanc, poured at the table (as it properly should!) It’s a quietly elegant champagne with soft bubbles and a crisp finish without any big autolyse notes. Starters of crispy rice squares are topped with a delicious creamy salmon tartare which makes them instantly poppable, whilst the papaya salad is a low chili affair which means we can taste the chunks of snow crab, but would be all the better for a more authentic Thai representation of the dish with more chilli. In the ‘grilled’ section the miso salmon fillet is nicely cooked with a few stir fried shimeji mushrooms, which I could eat a bowl of.  The soba noodles have a playful topping of tempura vegetables which is a crunchy contrast to the slinkiness of each strand.

The best dish of the night by a mile is the karaage which is blistered and bubbling in all the right ways, deliciously marinated and stabbed with cocktail sticks for easy munching. Service is spot on in their super cool trainers and blue outfits. It’s fun, breezy, youthful – the antithesis of the hotel, but all the better for the bold break from tradition.

Day Two – Breaky, The Aare River, Bears and Beers 

I enjoy a leisurely long and awesome breakfast. It’s not the biggest hotel buffet but I still can’t get the taste of those amazing strawberries out of my head. There are rows of meats, grilled veggies, smoked salmon, a cheese trolley, bread section and hot options spanning the usuals of scrambled eggs, tomato, bacon and a jolly fine rosti. Top marks for the addition of complimentary prosecco which takes it from ordinary, to a naughty but nice to start the day with bubbles..and why not?

We have a big day of walking. We don’t really have much of a plan other than to see the bears! Yep! Bears. We wander down Swiss flag adorned cobbled streets, windowshop under covered stone archways, mooch around the laneways, past medieval bridges and baroque churches, and then cross over a dazzlingly high bridge to see the bears (yes real bears), on the banks of the river. We have a pit stop at a local brewery where my server tells me about his year working in Melbourne! Then we meander along the pathways of the river till we stop at the roaring weir as we watch the scene all around us.

I am not referring to the mountains but a quirky local tradition that adds charm to this already magical location. 

Bern locals and tourists alike use the River Aare in a unique way – floating in the fast current. They commute home (or to work), swim, jump from bridges, cool off and generally have a heap of summer fun. It’s now late afternoon as we watch workers change into swimsuits, pack their belongings in waterproof bags, and float down the river, utilizing its current to carry them downstream. Teenagers huddle in groups on river banks with rubber dinghies. It’s the best people watching experience hands down, even the dogs get into the action.

Main Restaurant: Brasserie-Vue.Traditional Excellence Reimagined

It’s our last night we book into the Brasserie Vue, a formal French/Swiss affair that feels like dining in a grand European manor house. Crystal chandeliers cast warm light over tables where more international agreements have been hammered out than in most embassy dining rooms. 

It’s an early summer warm evening. We follow the crowd and dine out on the black and white tiled terrace with pretty black railings overlooking terracotta tile rooftops and the River Aare ahead. White parasols flap in the breeze, pots overflow with red geraniums and potted olive trees set the Mediterranean vibe, with the bar tucked away in the far corner. We start counting cows on the mountain tops as our cocktails arrive. 

Chef de Service Michele focuses on local and regional ingredients. It’s white asparagus season and an elegant bowl of creamy, savoury asparagus soup is an absolute delight, with micro herbs and drops of oil. Mr G has his favourite, beef tartare. For mains our server recommends the local ‘non salmon’ called Arctic Char, it’s more similar in flavour to a trout but retains a lovely oiliness to the texture.  The venison, sourced from sustainable local hunters, arrives cooked to absolute perfection – tender enough to cut with a fork yet retaining its wild, earthy character. 

The Sleep Factor

On both nights we get a great night’s sleep. The curtains are thick, heavy and close beautifully so the room remains dark, even when the sun rises early. The bed is supportive and – for me the most important thing is that it’s silent – no squeaks, bangs from the corridor or neighbour noise. Oh and the air con is very quiet, though we hardly used it at all thanks to the cool nights Swiss alpine air. So it’s a phenomenal 10/10 rating. 

The Verdict

Bellevue Palace isn’t just a hotel – it delivers an understated luxury that comes from centuries of practice. The combination of historical significance, insane views, service, and dining options creates an experience beyond typical hospitality. The omni presence of the GM on the floor of the hotel, shows the attention to detail from dawn till dusk.

Bellevue Palace, Bern, Switzerland. Check their website for seasonal packages and diplomatic immunity not included.