The new Head Chef Tanvi Goswami, who is so credentialed that if she had all her qualifications on a wall it’d need reinforcing, is now leading the upscale Indian cuisine revolution at Foreign Return.
The Surry Hills location should be enough of an indication that this is not your just down-the-road-local Indian restaurant. If it’s not, then perhaps the decor – from the blue bar with delicate lighting to the mural on the wall indirectly referencing India. This is a soothing space to enjoy Indian food innovation.
The impeccably world trained Tanvi has designed a menu that will take you on a tour of the continent. Her own family and global cooking experiences are woven into the menu like a complex fabric refining quintessential dishes from not only across the geography of the country, but its history too – for a unique flavour experience.
At Foreign Return every dish tells a story – and our fairy-tale-of-food began with the Tangra Colony Chilli Prawn ($25): deep fried prawns, bathed with the in-house chilli sauce and tossed with bell peppers. The dish brings together the Chinese influence in Kolkata from two centuries ago with Indian spices. The dish managed to slightly confuse the senses – something that happens a number of times with this menu due to the folding in of Indian influences into Foreign Returns offering.
The dish we are most addicted to is the Chicken Changezi ($24) Cooked in the tandoor this dish originates from Dehli is said to be named after Genghis Khan. Apparently Genghis or as Indians would have then called him – Changez, was particular about this dish and spices used. You may have seen this dish as a more wet version in Dehli, but at Foregin Return it’s not dripping in sauce but has just enough to be delicately mopped up with the pita bread and feel perfectly satisfied. Indian food makes fast friends of the newly acquainted! We are still thinking about this chicken and cannot wait to take our favourite people back to try it. It’s a dish fitting for any warrior, ancient or otherwise.
The signature plates and tandoor section of the menu are exceptional. The idea of popping into an Indian restaurant for a few bites and some cocktails and leaving without the burden of a swollen belly from too much Naan and coconut milk (but the Naan at Foreign Return is light and fluffy made my dextrous hands) is refreshing.
Something we’ve rarely seen on Indian menus is broccoli, which fellow foodie is a prime example of how the lightness of a spice touch can transform a much maligned vegetable into one that should be consumed by all. The Malai Broccoli ($22) – cooked in the Tandoor, brings together cream, yogurt, cardamom and coriander stems for the most sensational of dishes. Tender, smokey and only slightly creamy, this dish is yet another one we’re addicted to.
Something we’ve never had before in Indian cuisine is sesame. The Sesame Paneer Tikka ($24) is an Awadhi recipe bringing together cottage cheese, tahini and toasted sesame along with a sesame cream. The new head chef at Foreign Return designed this dish to reflect the relationship between India and Persia. The paneer is infused with sesame and grilled in the tandoor and the effect is startling. From the dish’s looks – the black sesame exterior contrasting with the bright white paneer is an attractive combination to say the least, plus the overall flavour bomb is perfect for lovers of cheese, extreme or mild.
Our final foray into the signature plates is the Beef Pepper Fry ($24). It reminded us so tenderly of Beef Rendang in its presentation that when we tasted the Indian flavours our senses were reset. A traditional recipe from Kerala of beef, onion, spices and curry leaves. Frankly you had us at curry leaves. Is it even worth eating if it’s sans curry leaf? The beef was as tender as a 24 hour slow cook with spices imbued into the meat so that every single bite is packed with a whirlwind tour of the magical continent.
The deserts are the other stand out here. Indian cuisine is definitely not known for delicate desserts, yet Foreign Return manages to bring lightness into the dessert selection to quite literally slip down the sides. The Ghewar ($28) is a fennel chikki, saffrom cream, almonds and rose petals is a light as air cake with a saffron cream that is colourful, delectable and fit for a queen – likely due to the cake being soaked in sugar syrup and having gold leaf adorning the top. The Shades of White ($18) is sort of an ice-cream/gelato with alcohol is perfect for the adult who can’t stop at one glass of wine (look away – nothing to see here)… Delicious and gluten free.
From a cocktail point of view, Foreign Return is inventive with a tongue in cheek twist. The team cleverly takes your favourite and puts an Indian spin on things. For instance, the Kashmiri Saffron Old Fashioned ($25) that brings together Woodfood Reserve Bourbon with Kashmiri saffron, fennel and cardamom with angostura bitters.
Or try the Bombay Spritz ($25) a take on the classic Aperol Spritz bringing together rose infused vermouth, gin, rooh afza (essences of coriander, orange, pineapple, carrot, rose petals, spinach and mint) cucumber, lime and prosecco. Controversially this beats the Aperol Spritz by miles – like entire international flight miles.
Considering Sri Lankan cuisine has seen elevation in Sydney, with Lankan Filling Station and Colombo Social both bringing sophisticated takes on street food coupled with spiced cocktails and good wines, it only stands to reason that the same should be applied to Indian cuisine. So often reduced to the local takeaway, Foreign Return is to Indian cuisine as Long Chim is to Thai. As someone who is regularly asked where to get proper Indian food in Sydney, it’s an easy call – Foreign Return in Surry Hills.
Foreign Return
527 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW
Mon-Fri 5pm-10pm
Sat & Sun – 12pm – 3pm, 5pm 10.30pm
