You know how you hear about those little unassuming restaurants tucked away off the beaten track, don’t look anything special, but execute ridiculously amazing food? Charlong, the Thai contemporary restaurant, not just fits this description, but epitomises it.
Arriving, I can’t say I’m jumping for joy. At first glance, it seems pretty plain Jane and the rumours of an exceptional Thai joint don’t seem to fit the bill. How wrong I was. And a lesson in life, never to judge a book by its cover.
As a local, knowing this venture has changed hands, I notice the decor hasn’t changed much. Still a casual neighbourhood vibe, now with an outlandish colourful graffiti Mural wall, fairly basic drop-down lamps, and a simple interior. It’s sweet, yet not outstanding. But when I sip my first cocktail and everything changes*
The Aungsumarin 
A full house
The Aungsumarin, a mix of Tequila, Cointreau and house made spicy tamarind syrup is a beverage that could easily feature in an Australian top 10’ cocktail list. It encapsulates all characteristics of an exceptional drink in terms of ingredients, craft, precision and skill. A balanced mouthfeel, with notes of sour dark sticky fruit, and a powerful but balanced tequila and aromatic kafir lime. The drink alone makes my initial view do a full 360.
Service certainly is not fast. But given the restaurant name is ‘char long’ translating to ‘charred and slow cooked’ its not meant to be. Boldly stated on the menu, ‘every dish is made freshly made and therefore the process may take some time, and we appreciate your patience.’ Ode to the honesty, and a lovely reminder to enjoy the experience without a rush.
Too many favourites 
Betel leaf magic
Charlong is run by an A team. ‘Alex’ Kaew, the fierce-less leader, a Thai native with fine dining background at Longsong is the brains behind this mastermind kitchen. She uses her grandmother’s recipes, western cooking techniques, premium Australian produce and her own talented spin. And Sara, her wonderful partner is the front of house beauty. She fondly runs the service, ensuring each table is greeted warmly and lovingly and speaks with passion and pride. Her smile and laughter are infectious and I feel myself radiating with happiness every time she graces us with her presence. Whilst small in numbers, this mighty team can move mountains and make magic.
The first bite of their signature prawn betel leaf is a flavour combination that warrants an Uber from the other side of town, or even the world. A beautiful leaf, packed with poached prawn, jungle mince and coconut caramel with so many flavours and textures. I could write an encyclopaedia on the experiences evoked in my mouth. Sweet, sour, chilli, unami . I’ve forgotten I’m in a ‘neighbourhood’ restaurant, as my palette is without hesitation, in ‘fine dining’ mode.
The food continues to arrive, and trying to pick a favourite is like trying to choose your favourite child. Impossible, but there is a stand out- Duck le kumquat. French technique cooking skills, a dark and sombre looking plate of charred pink plush gamey dry aged breast has a caramelised Brussel sprout and thick soy vinegar. Mouthfuls of tartness cut through from the sour kumquat fruit with a sticky sweetness, and the combination is quite literally an explosion in my mouth.
At this point, the wine list isn’t quite mature enough to back up the food, (just a teeny tiny one pager screaming for some TLC ). But there’s so much potential, it’s actually exciting to think of where this will go.
This understated Charlong diamond is not a cheap and cheerful quick Thai eat. It’s slow, long and intentional. As boldly stated on the menu, ‘we guarantee the deliciousness is well worth the wait.’ And after dining there, I wholeheartedly agree.
*PSA, later I discover this cartoon wall reflects all different parts of Thailand, one of the poignant touches of this mystical place ).
Charlong – Shop2/124 Carlisle Street, St.Kilda 3182
Tuesday – Thursday, Sunday 5pm-9pm Friday, Saturday – 5pm-10pm
