I’ve lived in Melbourne my whole life and know the haunts of this city. But I’ve just discovered a secret. Somewhere in the bustling CBD, underneath the ground, I get to go to Japan, for one night.
From the moment I’m given directions, it’s already mysterious. ‘Down a laneway, Find the lift, go to the basement Press the code, wait to be buzzed in’ I am bursting with intrigue.
As I enter from the outskirts on a chaotic summer evening and walk into this peaceful underground solace, suddenly everything in my body changes. I feel my cortisol levels drop, and a sense of calm radiate from head to toe. And as I hear the soft and welcoming greeting of humble Japanese staff dressed in traditional formal attire, I instantly switch into Zen mode.
The interior is enchanting. An immaculate and intimate room with a mere 16 seats, every aspect is purposeful and intentional. The austere and textural placemat, double sided chop sticks, clear unobstructed view of craftsmen working intensely to build the most amazing culinary creations.
Unlike most restaurants, there’s no blaring music to add ambience, no white noise. It’s purely a focus on the meticulous nature of the work. The decibel level in full service wouldn’t be more than a mouse whisper, (and I have a silent chuckle, thinking how my semi deaf mother would go in this place, where her natural voice is a small scream). While dining out can be loud and boisterous, it would be completely disrespectful here. So, instead I choose to mindfully lean in to the tranquillity and stillness.
Not many restaurants boast a philosophy. At Ishizuka, theirs dates back more than 600 years with the ‘Kaiseki’ menu, the pinnacle of Japanese haute cuisine. A holistic guided multi course structure with a perfect marriage of authentic food, culture and creative passions.
The journey is like a flowing waterfall. Each course effortlessly follows the other, sort of like a soothing yoga practice. You’re not quite sure when one pose finishes and the other one begins, but they are all strong and powerful yet nourishing for the soul. ‘Zensai’ – a combination of several elements on a plate such as a tightly wrapped smoky eel, scallop and ‘corn surinagashi (fancy hard to pronounce title, and taste someone reminiscent to creamed corn) is such a visually aesthetic course I almost feel guilty eating it. Agemono – live snow crab sits on a bed of lettuce and caviar followed by ‘Wan’ a cleansing warm soup with a chunk of abalone and winter melon. When served, a small fork arrives. I thought I was reenacting a Seinfeld episode where I had to say to the waiter ‘ah ha, but where’s the spoon.’ Nonetheless, I was wrong. This was deliberate, as its polite to drink the soup directly from the bowl.
Then what appears to be a piece of fish, the Kuchinoshi was in fact a white peach. This juicy palate cleanser topped with a creamy tofu is remarkably creative.
Likewise, no page left unturned, the drink pairing is outstanding. Starting with a diamond grade crisp sake, this elegant drop is like a sip of crystal heaven. A bold but balanced Chateaneuf du Pape is served in stemware more delicate than a baby’s fingernail. And an interesting match, the final savoury course Shokuji – somen noodle duck soup comes with an Australian dry rose with raspberry red current notes.
Ishizuka is not a dining experience. It is Japanese history coupled with an esteemed performance by the most talented craftsman, and exemplary demonstration of the most premium produce in Australia and Asia. If you’re after an authentic night in Japan, you don’t need a plane ticket, you just need to find that door.
Ishizuka Basement B01/139 Bourke St, Melbourne
Wednesday – Monday 5.30pm – 10.00pm