There’s something alluring about a wine bar. Shadowboxer, the petite spot in South Yarra, has been around for a while, but has kept a low profile. Now re-discovered, its very likely one of Melbourne’s best kept hidden treasures.
When I arrive on a typical Melbourne freezing winter evening, and spot the gorgeous outdoor terrace, I’m a little glim that I’m here during the treacherous time of the year. I could only imagine it being sublime in Summer, sitting in the sunshine, soaking up some rays with a glass of vino.
But when I walk in the door, that glum view instantly changes. The inside of this sweetly rustic joint is cosy, welcoming, and a quintessential Winter spot.
Candlelit tables and glowing lights give just the right amount of elegance and romance, without being overly sappy. The inside is much like a converted Victorian house with tall arches, nooks and crannies and it has a stylish yet homely touch. I see a vast selection of premium spirits on display, and of course a wine wall that makes my palate do summersaults of excitement before my first sip.
A perfect negroni 
The array of spirits
Boasting a Winter Negroni menu, there are four to choose from. Blood Orange has the right amount of citrus, zippy zest and a discreet but welcoming cacao nib. It’s served in a crystal glass with a large immaculately cut refreshing ice chunk and a gorgeous orange garnish twist. There’s one main problem with the drink. Two innocuous sips and it’s vanished.
Tempted to order another, I veer in the vino direction. Either I’m very thirsty or service is a little amiss, (as the wait for my next drink seems like an eternity), but when seen to – very polite and gracious. Lovely staff explains that the wine list hold predominantly local grapes, and the ‘by the glass’ list changes almost daily. It becomes a bit of potluck, especially when the Mornington Peninsula Pinot that tickled my fancy on the menu, changed an hour ago (somewhat annoying, but a first world problem and good reason to return).
Crisp Skin Trout 
Wow Wine Wall 
Winter warmer rumpcap
Then the food. Suffice to say, that everything, is simply excellent. Shadowboxer have created a unique, refined and interesting menu, that verges on fine dining but keeps it just that bit more approachable.
To start, a plate of creamy white cheese arrives. It’s very pretty, but the aesthetics doesn’t even do it justice. A salty creamy voluptuous Italian Stracciatella has an absolutely magical harmonious balance with a sweet but robust fermented persimmon, tarty sour Cumquat and an unami Japanese Koshu with subtle welcoming crunches of pepitas. It’s not like my partner and I to argue at the dinner table, but when there’s one plate between two, the question on who gets dibs on last bites, causes a serious racquet, as neither of us want to budge.
Then for mains. It’s funny that a basic fish, steak, pasta, still make it such a difficult choice. Luckily however, there is no wrong one, as everything is exceptional. A golden fillet of rainbow trout has crisp skin, and bathes in a complex flavour of green tomato, and seaweed butter and bottarga. Wagyu rump cap is a serious Winter dish. This rich and robust marbled hunk of meat revels in its carnivore heaven of a hearty, bold sauce Diane and eggplant mustard. We leave bursting and busting with glory, delight, and an entire amount of satiety on everything consumed.
When a wine bar is good, it’s great. Shadowboxer, is everything you want in one, plus more.
Shadowboxer 302 Toorak Road, South Yarra, 3141
Hours: Wednesday & Thursday 4pm-late, Friday, Saturday & Sunday 12pm-Late
