The Crown, by its nature is glitzy. Flashy lights, extravagant interior, alluring sounds. There’s an electrifying atmosphere that has no off switch. The casino is a place that appeals to the masses but often lacks personalised charm. So, when Kolkata Cricket Club opened, it seemed like a no brainer to follow in the same footsteps. Mischa Tropp, the young superstar chef with Indian heritage, has somewhat different ideas.
Walking in, it still has a ‘Crown’ vibe. Sky high ceilings, a large polished bar, and grand interior that could easily seat a few hundred. Perfect for a large bunch of lads on a night out, a table of corporate climbers in their finest designer attire, and just a regular solo punter, looking for a beer and a bite. Yet, despite the evident cash that’s been thrown in, Misha’s place is far more humble and actually has a soul.
The dining room is a bit like sporty cricket club meets fancy French diner. Elegant white tablecloths, pristine glassware, wooden panelling, and a backdrop of an Indian print wall. I can feel the stare of eyes glaring from black and white large, framed photographs of serious cricket superstars. The combination has a festive balance of culture and tradition with a fun, poshy spin.
On a boiling Melbourne day, I’m-tempted by a ‘Jungle Moth’. Mildly offput by the name, (being my least favourite flying pest), a sip, I’m pleasantly surprised. A refreshing balance of fruity sweet and sourness with pineapple, mint and rum – a perfect thirst quencher, that I have to stop myself from chugging down.
Puchka, a little thin fried wheat pastry looks like an edible shot glass. Filled with potato, spiced chickpeas and a potent looking delicious green tamarind water, its a perfect Indian palate pleaser.
Masses of food arrive on giant authentic silver trays in such a whimsical, way, I’m not sure if I’m in a casino, or India. Kingfish in Melbourne restaurants is often served dainty and raw. Kolkata defies convention by offering a Macher Bhorter – a robust and earthy salad with charred smoky white fish, wood roasted shallot and fragrant green herbs. Profound for a meal with such depth and flavour to maintain a light freshness.
Mach Posto – a whole tandoor barramundi lies tenderly, tucked under its thick cozy blanket of white poppyseed curry, and just a sweet little head and tail pop out. If words had olfactory senses, this fish would be screaming at you right now with the aromatic and sweet-smelling fragrances. But who are we kidding, butter chicken is where it’s at. This seemingly simple dish has layers of complexity. Tenderly moist sous vis thighs, smothered in a glowingly rich creamy sauce. Each melting bite of Indian spices has a powerful effect of igniting my taste buds, and at the same time, surrendering them.
By the end of the feast, the state of the tablecloth looks like we’ve been in a food fight. The colours and textures could be sold as frameable art and we’re all on an Indian spiced food coma high. (Dread to see their drycleaning bill)
But the highlight of the experience, is the man himself. Given the venue, and intensity of the food, I’m expecting a bold and overpowering presence. Instead, I meet Misha, a softly spoken sweet, unassuming guy and the epitome of a gentleman. He also happens to be the superstar culinary talent of this decade. He casually floats around, greeting his guests and humbly attributing much of the success of this venture to his fiancé, the brains behind the interior. For such a flashy place, it’s warming to see this young gun shine.
It used to be said there were no winners at the casino. But that was before Mischa Tropp’s butter chicken landed in the building.
Kolkata Cricket Club – Lvl 1 Casino, Crown Melbourne, 8 Whiteman Street, Southbank VIC 3006
Hours: Wednesday: 5pm–9.30pm, Thursday: 5pm–9.30pm, Friday: 12pm–2.30pm · 5–10.30pm, Saturday: 12pm–2.30pm · 5–10.30pm,Sunday: 5pm–9.30pm