The exotic name, “La Madonna” already sparks spunk. This hidden gem is nestled in the Melbourne CBD on the third floor of the Next Hotel. Prior to dining, I did a little research and was somewhat confused….An Italian chef, French cooking techniques? Yet I discovered what was executed, was far beyond imagination.
Inside La Madonna
Much like its name, the venture has a mysterious and quirky spin. It’s refined and classy without bordering on pretentious. A dark marble floor, cosy blanquettes with brown leather seats and wooden panels. Draping black curtains and mood lighting provide a romantic yet relaxed vibe.
Service is a highlight. It’s hard to strike a balance between professionalism and friendliness but venue manager Freddie manages to present the right amount of polish, strength of character, a depth of knowledge. (and does so in a non ‘wanky’ way) Despite it being date night, his demeaner is so lovely, it’s tempting to ask him to join our dinner.
Italian and French – Side by Side
Further explanation we discover that Venetian Chef Jacopo Degli Esposti has trained in Michelin star kitchens and has a passion for emulsions. Expect traditional Italian with a French flair. The biggest battle starts with appetisers of a fluffy house made focaccia with a deep EVO, next to a crunchy round baguette with a French butter. It’s almost comical having these two European carbs side by side for a tasting, to see which one is preferred (short answer – both!)
The Epic Affair
Then comes the ‘real’ stuff. A palate tickler of foie gras emulsion, followed by a pretty white circle of silky white line caught red emperor carpaccio. We watch Freddie gracefully pour a green tomato consommé around the delicate fish and enjoy each bite that’s soft as a newborn baby’s palm.
The next fish is the opposite of light. A cylinder of Australian yellowfin raw tuna sits poignantly on a dark thick basil earthy coulis. The salty robust fish is topped with black pears of ‘Anna Dutch Baeri Caviar’ and regal gold citrus for garnish. I’m by no means a queen, but if I was, I can imagine this stary eyed dish being on repeat in a castle, both for its aesthetics, refinement and decadent deluxe.
Beautiful birds that hang in cabinets on display feature in the last main course. A gamey rich plump purple dry aged duck. This pleasurable protein is sunken in a thick rich jus and served alongside what resembles a chunk of brown fat. In fact, it’s a vegetable incognito as this glazed caramelised radicchio cuts through this intense and wonderfully powerful dish.
We finish light back in France with some lavender macarons, perfect texture and crunch. (and cheekily, sneak off to the fabulous bar right next door for an aperitif with our own curated Negronis)
La Madonna has flair, excitement, a European edge and a world of influence. A meal is a spot of decadent pleasure in the heart of the CBD.
What we’re addicted to: Italy meets France, with exceptional service in a hidden gem
What we need to be more addicted: A bit more of an indoor vibe, as the cabinets in the background look a little empty.
La Madonna – Level 3 at Next Hotel Melbourne, Curio Collection by Hilton, 103 Little Collins, Melbourne, VIC Australia 3000
Breakfast: Monday to Friday: 7am till 10.30am, Saturday to Sunday: 7am till 11am, Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday: 5pm till late
