Strolling into El Topo you might get a sense you’ve been lied to.
They’re pushing this place as “Serious Mexican”. But there are animal skeletons dancing a conga along the walls and tables that look like laminated patchwork, and there’s no bottle marked “sobriety” on the Tequila and mezcal-crammed walls.
But what you won’t see are inflatable cacti from the novelty aisle of Bargain Home — all the décor is 100% sourced from South West Oaxaca, and when it comes to the food side of things, it gets more serious than a third-degree ghost pepper taco burn quenched with a bottle of Cholula.
Head Chef Matthew Fitzgerald didn’t spend his time at The Bentley and Bathers Pavilion learning about pretty tablecloths. Sure his menu features $5 tacos, but here you can get them with blood sausage or salted cod. Don’t fill up on corn tortillas though, because there’s also fried plantains, two kinds of ceviche plus a whole bunch of fun things you’re expressly told to eat with your hands — including the “tableclothstainer” mole and pork ribs.
The most serious mistake you could make though is stumbling out the door without trying one of Jessie Nolan (also ex-Bathers)’s Mexican doughnuts.
Solemnity has never been so much fun.
El Topo Mexican
The Eastern Rooftop, 500 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction, NSW 2022
T: 02 8383 5959