Put your hand up if you knew that sea urchins are notorious for destroying parts of the ocean. Keep your hand up if you also knew they’re considered a delicacy. If your hand is still in the air, you’re either weirdly knowledgeable, a conservationist, or someone who simply enjoys uniquely delicate food.
The Roe, a multidisciplinary space in Glen Waverley is one of a kind. It acts as a factory, retail store, museum and fabulously bold restaurant all in one. Safe to say, it’s a whirlwind experience in Melbourne.
The Education
I’ll admit I was a bit trepidatious. My most memorable encounter with an urchin was stepping on one in Greece in my 20s (and boy do I still remember the scream). All I knew about this place was that it was a multisensory experience featured around sea Urchin. I was properly perplexed.
Hidden in a quiet side street in Glen Waverley, we’re welcomed by humble, sharply dressed staff. We head upstairs to the “museum”. Walking through feels like I’ve entered a time warp. Part year-nine science experiment, with foil walls and strips dangling from the ceiling. Part digital aquarium with videos of urchins and their changing coloured spines. And part eclectic furniture store, with fluffy pink cushions on display. It’s so weird, but wildly wonderful.
We learn about kelp forests being destroyed by excessive urchin populations, and how this place pays homage to the divers and researchers trying to restore them.
And one simple way to support that mission: eat the urchins.
Culinary Surprises
We head down the corridor to the breakfast room, where we’re handed a bottle of cold brew made with sea urchin. I was a bit ee’ek out by it, but if you’re going to live on the edge and try something new, this is the place. So I drank it. I cant say I was racing back, as it’s an acquired flavour, sort of a mushroom meets maritime. Its served alongside the personal chef’s scrambled eggs of sea urchin umami flakes with toast and sea urchin butter. (This aint no regular cafe smashed avo yet very cool!)
The tour continues downstairs in the ‘cleaning room’ where we get to create our own lamplight made from an urchin shell. We smell the salt from the sea creatures and witness the pristine apparatus that the exceptionally passionate staff use to sterilise these babies before exporting.
The Restaurant
Then we enter the main dining hall. Its old-school charm meets modern day quirk. A grand band piano, a glistening chandelier and sweet kitsch touches. Staff wearing cute santa hats deliver a rainbow of fresh seafood, and most notably, the highlight- a parade of sea urchin – the edible part known as ‘uni’..Masses of smoky nitrogen erupt in front of our eyes, as courses of uni continue to arrive. Fried rice uni, with ui soy sauce, DIY roll your own sushi with uni, edible pearls and sea urchin mist.
Finally dessert. We’re presented with a bowl of ice cream, popcorn, and white chocolate, and we’re told by the proud manager that this is one of the 1000 recipes in the kitchen all made from uni.
It’s a jaw dropping affair, and whether you’re a fan of the taste or not, it’s impossible to to appreciate the unique and special offering that this place provides. Not much was known about sea urchin, but The Roe takes education, passion, sustainability, and culinary delights to the next level.
What we’re Addicted to: Sea to plate sustainability, education and culinary adventure all under one roof.
What we need to be more Addicted: Just quietly, sea urchin coffee is a combination I can safely live without.
The Roe – 49 – 55 Myrtle St, Glen Waverly 3150
Hours: Monday – Sunday 11.30am – 3.00pm, 5.30pm – 9.30pm. Closed on Thursdays
