Oh, to be young wild and free, it’s the dream isn’t it. As fabulous Melbourne is with all its nooks and haunts, in the peak of this biting cold Winter, most of us are dreaming of those youthful adventures on a tropical paradise somewhere exotic.
Walking out of the stinging weather into Hotel Nacional, is literally like walking into another country. The interior is light, airy, fresh and so inviting. Greeted by a hostess with a European accent, a jovial smile, and an exchange of banter, suddenly Melbourne Winter is a distant memory as I’m engulfed into this international haven. In a Mexican theme, it would be remiss not to start with a marg, and I go spicy. A glass arrives with speckles of chilli salt and a fiery baby red jalapeno. One sip in, the menial worries of my day are forgotten – instantly.
Boasting an entirely gluten-free menu, worldly travelled owner Taylor (owner Rufio and Repeat Offender) proudly explains that in his hospitality journey, he experienced dietaries on the rise. To make everyone comfortable at his restaurants, he intentionally designed them as dietary friendly. My coeliac partner is really stoked, but gluten-free or not, there is zero difference to the taste and flavours.
Start with the baja fish taco. This might be a big call, but there aren’t many things I’ve eaten that are life changing – (let alone a taco). This seemingly innocuous black corn tortilla, topped with finely shaved curls of fennel slaw, a hubba hunk of crispy fried white flesh rockling and creamy chipotle aioli will be forever imprinted in my mind. The GF batter, so light, fluffy, dreamy – I’d travel miles for just for one bite.
Glazed pumpkin is a little perplexing, intentionally rock-hard, these orange cubes are a vibrant looking dish as they sit on a black walnut pipan, topped with pearls of juicy pomegranate, and a nourishing kale. Staying with green theme is broccolini with a twist, or in this case a snap crackle pop. Topped ranchera sauce and an unusual but awesome chilli popcorn. Then, the rich robust lamb barbacoa. This juicy brick is cooked so tenderly, with unique Mexican barbecue sauce. If you’ve haven’t been to Mexico, the flavours now make a visit there a bucket list item. Finishing decadently with a dark chocolate delice, I thought the fun was over. Little did I realise; it was only just beginning.
Taken over what was Campari house, Hotel Nacional now is a multilevel, multipurpose building. So, arm twisted, another smoky mezcal margarita ordered, except this time, I’m heading up. As we make our way up the stairway to heaven and poke our head inside each of the 5 levels, I can see they are all full of surprises. It’s like a gigantic castle with treasures on each floor.
In Summer, the rooftop would have skyline views of Melbourne, but in this weather the retractable roof means it’s an inside paradise. Same colours scheme, same green cacti, but instead of a shining sun, you get glowing warmth from inside heaters.
Hotel Nacional is fun, fabulous and a welcome change to pretend to be young, wild and free.
Hotel Nacional,23-25 Hardware Lane, Melbourne, 3000
Hours: Monday – Sunday 12pm – 12am