It’s been ages since I last dined at Glass Brasserie—long enough for low rise jeans to rise again and Juicy Couture tracksuits to find a new home. Launched by Luke Mangan in 2005, Glass quickly became a Sydney dining institution, set within the revamped Hilton Sydney, where Marble Bar and Zeta lounge still reign supreme.
Luke’s success here paved the way for his ventures from Virgin in-flight dining to Kimpton hotels. Now, the baton passes—not to another celebrity chef ,(Hurrah!!) but to Natalie, a woman who’s earned her place in the spotlight after working in this kitchen since the age of 19. Ten years later she’s just been appointed head chef. So we are here to check out the new menu.
Arrival & Design
From entering through the rotating doors, into a glass atrium. The Hilton always feels gracious, light and airy. Getting an escalator up to the dining floor creates anticipation in me as I get a sneak peak of those sky high glass entry area and the first sounds of chatter from the restaurant.
Its a stunning venue iconic views onto the QVB that changes with the light and the weather. The breathtaking wine wall holding 3,500 wines says get ready for something special.
Chef Natalie Murphy & food philosophy
I love a world where loyalty, hard work and clearly talent has paid off. Centered around “refined simplicity” and “family style” with Natalie personally visiting local markets and suppliers weekly to source the best quality ingredients she’s now at the helm of an all female restaurant which includes Restaurant Manager Marie. Now both of these concepts have me at hello. There are definitely people who love 3 hours of hunger torture (or I call a degustation). We opt for the fix menu which has a number of different plates but served in groups. The A’la carte menu is extensive, so this gives us a great feel as a taster of what’s to come.
The Dining experience – Glass Banquet & Matching Wines
By the window, we’re greeted by Mauro Bortolato, the Head Sommelier who quickly proves he’s as much a highlight as the food itself. With stories that meander through wine, life, and winery legends, Mauro’s charm keeps us entertained. Oh, and the wine list? He’s curated over 1,000 handpicked labels, including rare labels not found elsewhere in the world that might just tempt you to reallocate that house deposit.
The evening kicks off with a show-stopper—a champagne trolley rolled over by Mauro himself, complete with a frosted glass bowl filled with icy water cradling a chilled bottle of Pommery. Flanked by sparkling glassware, it’s all theatre, elegance, and just a touch of indulgence. As the golden bubbles flow, I can’t help but think: why settle for $30 poured with zero fanfare when you can have this? Now this is how champagne is meant to be served.
Two warm, fluffy slices of Piok bread with Coppertree butter appear, then disappear with ease. Next a platter of seafood laid over ice; four juicy fresh Yamba King Prawns, naked of shells except for their heads are cuddled up like drunken mates alongside four Sydney Rock oysters. I never need a mary rose sauce, nor a vinaigrette with produce this good, but my dining companion Sue, is doing a “oh my god you have to try the vinaigrette” and she’s right, it has yummy caramelised shallots, acidity and balance.
Maruo is back with a bottle of Butussi Friulano which he holds in front of us as if a proud parent was showing off a baby. The Valentino Butussi winery was established in 1910 in Corno di Rosazzo, in the Friuli Colli Orientali DOC area. It’s a lovely straw yellow colour, delicate dry wine with a nice floral nose. Growing up in Venice, these are wines of his memories.
Our first course arrives. A Southern Tasmanian Squid is served whole, leopardy with its natural skin charcoal grilled, with golden edges and thoughtfully sliced, with tendrils gloriously furled. Its sweet, soft flesh simply melts; it’s a bold dish, served with a charred cheek of lime. WIth seafood this good, it doesn’t need anything but aromatic pepperberry salt, and paired with Joseph cold pressed olive oil from South Australia. I could eat 5 of them. Also on the table are two ‘Autumn Tartlets’. A forkful of crispy, crumbly shortcrust pastry melting into smooth Meredith Valley Goats Feta the slices of Persimmon add sweetness and lemony sumac. Another plate contains moody slices of Pino’s Wagu Bresola dotted with pickled pine mushrooms which cut through the richness. Opting for no red meat, blue fin tuna sashimi is delicately handled in a buttermilk dressing swirling with a bright green house made dill oil with crunchy cucumber. Classic. Simple. Clever. This is a feast!
Mauro is now back with 2022 Domaine Naturaliste Artus Chardonnay. It’s a powerhouse of butterscotch flavours, shortbread and balanced acidity. Each of our courses is matched with wines, glassware and a sense of occasion as we are told not just about each wine, but the winery stories.
Sue is staring at her 500g MB+4 O’Connor Grass-Fed rib Eye MB+4 O’Connor with envy and a tiny amount of defeatism. It’s paired with a Barossa Tait Basket Pressed Shiraz. Chef Natalie again lets the produce sing with a sweet Madeira jus and bernaise sauce to the side. Skin on fries and Cos lettuce leaves with white anchovy and parmesan is a nod to a caesar without the faff. Market Fish of Mahi Mahi isn’t seen much on Sydney menus and what a shame. It’s stunning. Simply cooked, it’s buttery crispy seasoned skin and creamy flesh is perfect paired with roasted grape, almond, witlof and olive.
Just when we think we can’t eat another thing, two delicate shells of Valrhona dark chocolate short crust pasty tarts are filled with caramel, pineapple and topped with a creamy quenelle of coffee gelato. Boom. Fabulous. Good night Sydney.
The Daily Addict Verdict
What are we Addicted to? An all-female team running a timeless venue with jaw-dropping views of the Queen Victoria Building—what’s not to love? The service strikes that perfect balance of elegance and approachable warmth. This is special, and at night a romantic place to dine, but with a price point which makes it unbelievable value from the sheer quality and freshness of the local sourcing, to the accuracy of cooking which in a world of foams and fanciness takes courage to be more ‘naked’. Mauro is a standout for his genuine care and infectious passion of wines, while Natalie’s vision of “refined simplicity” hits all the right notes. She’s a rising talent, letting the incredible Australian produce sing, and boy, does this is better than a Bublé crooner!
What do we need to be more Addicted? Very rarely is a meal faultless. From beginning to end there were no misteps. If I am being super picky, I have had dining experiences here where a servers arrive and you can choose your bread from the basket they are holding. It’s a tiny change, but in a world of details, it would be a nice kick off. If the banquet doesn’t suit you there is a vegetarian option and they were happy to do any swaps and there is the A’la Carte menu. Come here on your own and be pampered. Or in a group. It’s back on my best of Sydney fine dining.
Glass Brasserie, Sydney Hilton Hotel, Level 2/488 George Street, Sydney NSW 2000
Glass Banquet – $129. Wine Pairings chosen by their sommeliers (100ml each) Standard 3 wines $40pp or Premium 3 wines $80pp