The drumbeat of horse-hooves preceded Genghis Khan’s Asian and Chinese conquests, yet the rattle of the woks signals this watery offensive seeing China Doll’s expansion from Woolloomooloo to the city, Manly, and now, Bondi.
As an exercise in balance chef Seb Gee (ex Est, China Doll) neatly envelopes his South East Asian culinary passion which glows as brightly as its red Neon signs.
China Diner isn’t your average beachside pit stop. It’s all about the options: sit at the bar, the high tables, or the funky wooden booths complete with hanging pot plants and tuk tuk esque padded seats and pop stud ties. Choose the ‘finer diner’ section at the back if you wish, but it’s much more fun at the pointy end…just like a plane, it’s the place to be.
Love it or hate it; Malaysian Marmite chicken wings will create conversation, so too the photogenic Son in Law crispy eggs with a quiff of prawn floss in a delicate tamarind sauce. The mains are the real thrill. Glossy pork belly chunks appear like lego bricks – sweet, crunchy and moreish. Aromatic ginger, chilli and lime enlivens silky barramundi, while the nuoc cham dressing over a tumble of noodles gives a kick to delicious pork patties. Palm sugar ice cream with a crunchy mattress of strawberry and rose granite seals the deal.
Sebastian Crowther’s knack for all things alcohol doesn’t let us down. The lemongrass sour with its top knot of coconut foam is a worthy opponent of the Kung Fu Girl Riesling. But why battle it out anyway? There’s no need for chopsticks at five paces, just kick off your sandy Haviana’s and chill.
China Diner
Upstairs at the Hall St Complex, 75 – 79 Hall Street, Bondi
Hours: Mon – Thurs: 12pm – 11pm , Fri – Sun: 12pm – Midnight
