‘Affordable luxury’ sounds like an oxymoron, right? But here we are, seated by the window on Crown Street, next to Bills in Surry Hills. We have a happy vibes as we read the menu and its prices. French onion soup for $18? Wines for $12? Nooo, get outta here. Oops sorry, typo, get in here…
Bistronomie by OK is the latest gem from the OK Group, led by chef Opel Khan (also known for Métisse, Acqua E Farina, and Pizza Boccone). Born in Bangladesh, Khan wears many chef hats (or should we say chef whites?). His foodie journey is a passport stamped with flavors from around the world. Tonight its French.
We are here on a cold, wintery, wet Friday night. Like the best of French bistros, there is a glow looking in from outside – the space is handsome, adorned with hanging lights, chandeliers, marble tables and dark wooden chairs. Smart staff with French accents greet us and a glass of Loire Valley NV Veuve Tailhan blanc de blanc arrives. Minutes later so does a slice of baguette with smoked butter.
Duck confit ravioli 
French onion soup
‘Shares’ offer a range of options. Two perfect halves of boiled egg arrive, the yolk is a fine orb of fluffy, eggy mayonnaise topped with a stylish fascinator-like parmesan wafer. It’s old school, decadent and so delicious. French onion soup is a classic, and here it is executed brilliantly with a well rounded beefy broth, a side of bread for dipping whilst long shoe laces of silky onion drip from our spoons.
Another ‘share’ we enjoy is a bowl of ravioli. Each square pasta pocket is a rocket of flavour generously stuffed with a rich duck leg confit lounging on a puddle of duck jus. Just when you think you can’t have enough duck, two glossy squares of duck breast arrive, pimped up with duck jus and paired with a delicate pastry confit duck leg tart – showing that three is not a crowd, but a cracking dish and number ($48). So much to j’adore.
Fsh of the day 
Pork belly 
Cripsy roast potatoes
From the ‘roast’ section I order the fish of the day – a crispy skin barra, all juicy with wilted winter greens & lemon beurre blanc sauce. Just for fun we order the fricassée of roasted mushrooms ($32). A single open cap mushroom is topped with fungi in a moody, earthy, creamy sauce. It’s a forest adventure, but size-wise I have massive fomo as it’s more starter than main, especially when I compare it to our neighbouring tables handsome chook. Darn. Next time.
Service does a solo dance of its own with each of our dishes arriving separately. I don’t mind watching my partner eat, but not when I can’t join in the fun. Good job that a bowl of crispy roast tatties keeps hunger at bay. Admitedly it’s their third week, and the floor team’s apologies are heartfelt.
Starters from $16, mains from $29, and desserts from $10—there’s love in the air at these prices. And let’s not forget the wines by the glass, starting at $12. Would I like another glass of Herringbone Hills Sauv Blanc? Oh, why not. Merci et bon soir!
Bristronome by OK, 355 Crown St, Surry Hills,NSW 2010
Hours: Dinner (Tue–Sat): 5:30 PM–12:00 AM
More venues from the Opel Group
