The ‘Ultimo’ Roti, but not as you know it, breakfast, madtarbak, curries and deserts that take you back to your travelling days…Hello Kafe Kooks

Tucked away in Ultimo, a street away from Broadway shopping centre we arrive at Kafe Kooks. This is a mecca for roti lovers. The owners mission is to showcase roti, an addictive Indian bread, in innovative ways beyond the traditional favourites to push the boundaries of what we know from breakfast through to supper.

As a local I feel bad, how have I never heard of this place?

It’s a weekday lunch and it’s buzzing. There is an addiction to David Bowie. I have never seen so many ‘Bowie’ inspired printed cushions which amusingly flank one side of the dining wall. The space is pooch friendly too.

Andrew Ray, opened the doors in 2022 after years of travelling to different parts of Asia and falling in love with its food. He comes bounding over to us like a happy labrador that wants a scratch behind the ears. His infectious passion for roti and warm hospitality is at the heart of this place which his locals love. We haven’t eaten yet, and already we want to curl up and be adopted into his loyalty club.

There is a reason for visiting – Head Chef Shaun Ronald Dsouza (ex Star Entertainment Group, Chin Chin & White + Wong’s). Born and raised in Mumbai this is a roti match made in heaven.

Chicken satay, salads, roti and madtarbak

First to arrive are four juicy satay chicken skewers, the accompanying sauce sends reminds me of the tastes from hawker markets in Kuala Lumpur. Little rice cake squares, cucumber dipping sauces, and a house made sambal together with a house made satay are all delicious. The showstopper is the butter chicken roti wrap, workers are ordering via the windows, no @$%# Sherlock, it’s freakin’ awesome. Juicy chunks of chicken, spicy buttery sauce all wrapped up in, well a roti wrap. Yummo.

crispy delicious roti

We tuck into Sarang Burung which is effectively eggs on toast (the toast is replaced by a ring of roti) with a drizzle of sambal. The madtarbak is where the fun is at, chopped into poppable squares. The first is ‘mother & daughter’ curried chicken and egg, then we try the tuna. It’s brilliant. In fact, these are my favourite ways to eat roti. My dining companion, Penny disagrees, she loves the vegetable curry with a roti so crispily hand squashed we can feel the happy clap. I prefer the butter chicken curry which is tasty with rich tomato and yoghurt, but not heavy. Aussies love a good gozleme, here it is a more refined version of the many we have had at a market stall. It is feather light, not too much cheese, making it altogether a more delicate morsel rather than the hunger quencher

For desert lovers. The Bangkok Street Style Banana Roti ($14) takes me back to my days travelling back through the islands, mainland and up into the mountains of Chang Rai. For me it misses the indulgence of lashings of condensed milk. In Thailand, this would be a few holes punched into a can and drizzled like strands of spaghetti onto the roti. Surprisingly it’s the apple crumble roti I like most. Sweet cooked apples, granola and dusting of cinnamon sugar.

With wine from $10, cocktails on offer and a range of hot and cold drinks you will not go thirstly. Our recommendation is to round up your mates. The banquet group menus are great value from $44 ahead. Even two small bowls of curries and a roti are $24. Andrew and the team have started roti cooking classes which are now booked out for months. With more demand he’s happy to put on more dates… get down for the Ultimo feast in town.