You know the drill; it’s a battle of wits, speed, agility and (let’s face it) will power. It takes a certain kind of personal strength to beat the yum cha women at their own game and not succumb to a table heaving with every kind of steamed, fried, wok tossed delights under the Golden Sun.

After much begging from clients, Neil Perry has finally charmed chef Andy Evans. Spice Temple Sydney follows its Melbourne sister into Cantonese landscapes. Raise your chopsticks in praise, a sophisticated non-trolleyed yum cha experience is born.

The smoking, sultry interior at Spice Temple remains the same with a few surprises – the bar has had a revamp curling around the front of the restaurant creating a new ‘sit up and munch’ experience where you don’t need your flash light to eat. Expect a quality driven, produce focused menu scattered; free range pork, organic chicken, sustainable caught fish, Spencer Gulf prawns and Hervey Bay scallops are all part of the dumpling programme.

Kick off with moreish cabbage and radish pickles which go brilliantly with the flaky pastry shallot pancakes. Har Gow prawn dumplings are soft and juicy and the chicken fungi pot stickers have a refined delicate crispy bottom. Spring rolls are a surprise; filled with scallop and prawns only to be trumped by a magical dish which transforms the humble eggplant into a majestic dish of crispy gingery garlicky deliciousness. Airy lucky money dumplings are the perfect carrier for chili paste and soft strands of 18hr cooked Wagyu brisket. Of course no yum cha experience is complete without a sacred custard tart (the pastry is heaven sent).

So forget those ‘mystery meat Chinatown’ memories, grab a bowl of house made chili sauce and get on your sustainable trolley. One things for sure, you won’t see any squeaky wheels in this spicey hot spot.

Spice Temple
10 Bligh Street, Sydney NSW 2000
www.rockpool.com/spicetemplesydney