Sometimes it does seem as though those third-wavers are getting a little carried away with their single-origin beans and $20,000 espresso machines. Then, you actually get to taste are a rare kind of coffee and you can almost understand why they’re so passionate about their caffeinated cause.

Straight from Colombia to the Sensory Lab at David Jones comes Finca Santuario Geisha, grower Juan Camilo Merizalde’s number one coffee of the year.

At his plantation, Merizalde grows more than 20 different coffee cultivars and you’ll find aficionados the world over raving about what he produces (many seem to be fans of the Red Bourbon beans, which are also now available at Sensory Lab).

While the baristas can prepare you a sample of Geisha on the Slayer espresso machine ($5), the siphon ($10) brings out the subtleties: hints of green apple and stone fruits, followed by hibiscus, bergamot, clove and cardamom.

You can also take some of the beans away for home consumption, although you’ll want to treat them with due respect: 250g will set you $62.50.

Sensory Lab
297 Little Collins Street, Melbourne 3000
(03) 9645 0065