Whenever I visit Manly, I always wonder why I don’t go to this world-famous Sydney locale more often – with it’s beautiful beaches and views, buzzy atmosphere and people (and possibly even whale!) watching, it deserves it’s popularity. This time I have been lured by the institution that is The Pantry on the beachfront, with the kitchen now being helmed by ex-Popolo chef, Francesco Armillis.
Given the culinary pedigree and the location, we are looking forward to a locally sourced, ultra-fresh seafood focused, Italian inspired menu on this sunny winter’s afternoon. As a historic venue, it is small and gets booked out quickly. However, whilst the seats are tightly packed, it doesn’t feel cramped with an airy, spacious feel and most tables have a view of the ocean.
We sit right at the expansive window’s edge with views of the water, and immediately feel relaxed, enjoying a glass of Jansz Rose bubbles with it’s notes of fresh red apple – which not having had it for ages, we had forgotten how excellent it is btw – and check out the menu.
Starting with the Tapas options, we are drawn to the crispy Zucchini Flowers with Romesco sauce and white anchovies along with the Prawn Pillows with seaweed to start. Whilst expecting whole battered prawns with flecks of seaweed to arrive as you might get elsewhere; these plump parcels are a delightfully green surprise of minced prawns mixed with seaweed and zucchini then fried, salted and paired with fresh lime.
Moving onto the Entrées, we are presented with the robust Hiramasa Kingfish Crudo balanced with a light microgreens and tomato salad. We can’t go past the Coral Bay oysters served au naturale with tomato burnoise on the side. These beauties are exactly how oysters should be and some of the best I’ve had for ages: good sized, pearl coloured with a firm texture that are creamy, slightly sweet and a touch of saltiness. Many more, please! Both seafood starters match perfectly with the well-priced, crisp Castle Rock Riesling from the cold-climate Great Southern Porongorup region of WA.
Stunning Oysters 
Kingfish Crudo 
Crisp white wine + the ocean = heaven
The friendly staff are knowledgeable, happy to recommend options and provide the right ratio of timely service and space to enjoy the experience.
Seafood Linguine 
Mandatory thick cut chips
The standout main course to try is the seafood linguine – marrying the best of the Italian theme with a fresh medley of prawns, crab and asparagus with squid ink linguine and a tangy tomatoey broth style sauce. This partners well with the Vasse Felix (also from WA!) Chardonnay in Schott Zweisel glassware. And needless to say, the crispy but fluffy thick cut chips were obviously mandatory…
Unfortunately, we can’t report back on the whale spotting as we didn’t see any because we were too busy enjoying fresh seafood, well priced wines and lovely service – as you will too!
The Pantry Manly
The Promenade, North Steyne, Manly NSW 2095
Hours: Breakfast: Mon-Thurs: 0800-1100; Fri-Sun 0730-1100
Lunch and Dinner: From 1145 onwards
