When Haymarket’s most iconic restaurant announced it was shutting its doors, many in Sydney went into foodie mourning. The chefs who would eat there late at night after shifts, party goers, and let’s face it thousands of fans who over the years have slurped, chomped and adored their food including their most loved dish – Pippies in XO sauce.

We didn’t have to wait long for the ‘new’ iteration and it’s very different. Set inside Darling Quarter’s groovy urban food hall, Golden Century has set up shop, less restaurant and more a take out window with seating where you can choose your own adventure.

The ducks are still on display like a display cabinet of trophy medals. They are super model ducks all glossy and deeply suntanned. Stacks of bamboo steamers are sending plumes of vapour into the air as orders are flying out of the server window.

We start with their housemade dumplings. Two little trays arrive (sadly no bamboo baskets are served up here), the first is prawn har gow, the second is a prawn and chive combo which is easily identified by their green colour. They are superior versions of the classic with the right amount of crescent curl, precision in the deep folds, juicy prawns and the translucent skin is carefully cooked. Pork Siu Mai is another winner with golden folds bursting with porky goodness. We add a sweetcorn and chicken soup which arrives in a plastic container. It’s a meal in itself, with lots of soft chunks of chicken and a richly flavoured stock gloriously thickened with strands of egg.

The iconic BBQ feast is next. You can order ‘half/whole’ and it is amazing value. A substantial half serve of crispy roast pork belly is just $20 and it turns out to be one of our favourites with crackling, nicely rendered fat and softly cooked meat. If you want more of a one plate meal then you can order ‘BBQ plus rice/noodles and choose from three different noodle types. Soon our table is jewelled with trays of BBQ pork, BBQ duck and soya chicken. One of our favourites is the soya chicken, clevered through the bone and served with thin wheat noodles which really hold the flavours. Just four dollars will steal you a little pot of XO sauce and dry noodles which is a flavour bomb added to any of the meats but really good with their signature BBQ pork. Add a little side of steamed veggies and its a feast and jolly good value!

Golden Century won the hearts of Sydneysiders offering a gateway into Cantonese cuisine. This new BBQ offering might be the baby of the group but the fans are here in droves as boxes upon boxes of classic cuts are flying out quicker than you can say Uber Eats.

Golden Century BBQ, Darling Square Exchange, Ground Floor, 1 Little Pier Street, Haymarket NSW 2000
Hours; Tues Closed, all other days: 11am – 8pm