Former Rockpool Chefs Unveil Unbeatable $95 Italian Set menu at Arms Length in the Cross

What is seedy, sassy and classy all at the same time? It’s our most notorious suburb the Cross, home to crime bosses, bouncer lined strip club streets and luxe restaurants. Its newest tenant Arms Length is a venture from sisters Rebecca O’Shea (former Rockpool Dining Group director) and Rosie O’Shea who have brought a chic restaurant and bar to the hood.

Located in one of the charming heritage terraces on Kellet street, the retro interior with checkerboard tiles, red laminate tables, moody lighting and mahogany coloured booths gives off a bougie diner look. Arms Length might be the new kid on this block but they are no rookies, relocating from Cleveland Street and tonight it’s a buzzy full house of both followers and curious neighbourhood foodies.

The booths are ideal for an intimate dinner and there is a space for a groups, which we are tonight celebrating the birthday of special friend. Tucked at the back of the restaurant by the bar, how convenient, where you can be unintentionally loud and not disturb other diners.

Some serious street cred in kitchen with Head Chef Keno Perlas (ex Monopole, Margaret) and Executive Chef Jeffrey Sue (ex Rockpool, Ormeggio, China Doll) who have designed a modern Italian menu. The Supper Soiree is a killer offer, a 6 course set, with some bonus comps from the chef slipped in and, wait for it, cocktails and matching wines for under a hundred.

Sally the restaurant manager welcomes us in and gets us going on a Rhubi Spritz Cocktail, mixed with Four Pillars Rare Dry Gin, Cinzanno Rosso, and Rhubarb liquor, it’s fresh, a touch bitter and a great palate opener. The optional Sydney Rock Oysters should be mandatory, super fresh salty morsels and they sit well alongside starter Oritz Anchovy, Stracciatella with Italian XO on brioche. No saline, rubbery, hairy anchovies here, it’s morish with a chilli bite from the XO, a crowd pleaser. Alto Alto!! Bianco, Trebbiano/ chardonnay is flowing into glasses to accompany the first entrée, Burrata dressed with smoky eggplant caponata, it’s a luscious combo on toasted sourdough.

Another glass of Alto Alto!! rose style Ambratino, skin contact Trebbiano arrives to pair with the Krudo. The Kingfish dressed in a buttermilk and salsa macha is delicate, sweet and a little spicy, it doesn’t last long on our table. Any zero-alc guests don’t miss out either with some clever mocktails including the Four Pillars Bandwagon Shiraz Gin, lemon juice, cherry syrup with a foamy top.

While our group pauses for the main, more wine flows, making us a happy chatty group. An Alto Alto!! Sangiovese arrives in time for the Rigatoni main of Beef Ragu and Grana Padano. Once again skill in the kitchen comes through in a 10 outta 10 ragu sauce. Slow cooked meet that falls apart in a rich sauce with a subtle chilli heat. The fresh zesty gem salad is an excellent accompaniment.

To close out the menu, a petit Montenegro arrives with a traditional tiramisu, a perfect combo, strong and punchy with a sweet lush creamy finish.

Not only are these sophisticated dishes, they are generous. Chef Keno explains while others are going small-fancy, this isn’t what diners want right now, their all inclusive menu is designed so that their guests leave satisfied. What did the party think? We loved the friendly staff, generous pours and plates, delicious food and the party space to get together.