Rooftops are a thing in Melbourne. So much so, they’re a bit old and tried. What’s more exciting and far less discovered, finding a gem below the earth. Yūgen pushes the culinary experience beyond mediocre to execute the extraordinary – exquisite dining  in an underground cave.

I’d heard a little about the venue before I went and it has a bit of mystery about it. Walking through the door it’s almost a letdown. A simple room with a lift and polite chauffeur. As I being taken down to this underground delight, I realise that this is deliberate – they want to confuse me. What I am looking at before me, is beyond my wildest dreams.

I see a shining sparkle of the most magical chandelier dripping from the roof that sways effervescently. I’m captivated. This poignant and stunning stalactite feature alone is enough to make Yugen a destination venue.

But the enchantment continues. Three stunning levels, all well-constructed, with simple sophisticated touches that create a calming vibe. The waitstaff explain, that the interior is Japanese inspired with a Buddhist influence, mixed with a modern touch.

Usually, it’s champagne and oysters that are a heavenly marriage. But that was before I’d tried them with sake. The yuzu soy and finger lime of the pretty pearl trickle down my throat, only to be followed by a cool, crisp, dreaming, sake waterfall.

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Smoked Eel Chawanmushi – Mmmmm? Not only do I not know how to pronounce it, I have zero idea what it is. What arrives is a giggly custard, with the salinity of the eel, decadent richness of the brown butter, sweet creamy texture topped with a crispy chicken skin. This dish is next level in creativity and umami combinations.

Next up the kingfish. Delicate slices bathe in a refined Ponzu kimchi sesame. If you happen to be lashing out for a special occasion, worthwhile is a mouthful, followed by a cannot get in Australia (only possible because head som is Serbian with excellent international connections) Premier cru Chablis. While our wallet may experience a slight beating, it’s tomorrow’s problem and fair to say this match is a life changing culinary experience.

If you thought only birds could fly, you haven’t seen the flying fried barramundi. This crisp whole fish, reminiscent of a sweeping bird, is covered in a thick sichuan chilli paste (looks more bark than bite, as it’s actually very balanced).

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We don’t stop at mains. The chocolate bowl is an indulgent theatrical performance. A rich caramel syrup is poured onto a chocolate cap that melts the lid to give you spoonful’s of crunchy brownie.

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When the meal is over, its fitting to head downstairs and continue the evening under the stars with another refined cocktail.

Altogether this memorable underground cave experience, leaves you gleaming, glowing, and much like the spectacular chandelier, a lasting sparkle in your eye.

Yugen – 605 Chapel Street, South Yarra, Melbourne
Wednesday – Sunday
6pm – Late