What’s New & Notable? The Esca group contains some of my favourite restaurants, including Aalia and Ito. Nour has been around for 5 years under the keen eye of Executive Chef Paul Farag who has built a fan base not quite as big as Oasis, but nonetheless insanely loyal. This is our first time here as Farag hands over the reins to a new chef – Kasif and a new menu is launched.
The Vibe – Sophisticated but cosy. We arrive on a Thursday evening and a quiet restaurant soon fills up. We are seated in the back section underneath a tree. I love a tree in a restaurant! We over look an insanely large open kitchen with a roaring woodfire oven. It’s relaxed but an elevated place to dine. If you go here on a first or second date I feel the only way is down…
The Setting and Design – The interior design is crafted by DS17 and inspired by the concept of light, which is reflected in the name “Nour”. Natural light flows from the large arched windows and earthy shades of yellow, dusty pink and calm whites compliment a mix of light woods, marble, copper detailing, and woollen fabrics.
Service & Arrival –We are swiftly seated. Service in Australian restaurants is often relaxed and it’s not uncommon to do the hand ‘wavy thing’ to get attention. Here, is the opposite, the service is more like a magpie swooping in to snatch your unguarded leftovers. We amusingly have to resource guard our not yet completely finished plates, still containing delicious sauces, remnants of eggplant, and our wines – from the attentive, enthusiastic but lovely staff.
The Food – The menu is split into snacks, mezze, mains and banquets. We hear that the go to dish is the mussel ($8.5) for a single half shell mussel. No other underestimated bivalve has seen such a preening – It’s been woodfired stuffed with pine nut rice, rich in chicken fat butter with a piped yellow ripple of lusciousness. It fall’s a bit flat for me, a little gluggy rather than unctious. The on shell woodfired Abrolhos scallop, is a different story, gone in a nanosecond of sweetness, all that remains is to dip my freshly baked puffy bread in the remains of a savoury aleppo burnt butter.
If there is one dish which defines it’s a new take on a ceviche. It’s topped with a large green leaf of a sesame plant (who even knew you could eat them? Let alone buy them?). In a ‘The Block’ style reveal my dining partner Ms MS lifts the leaf to showcase a finely chopped medley of raw silver trevally, tabbouleh, cacik made from yoghurt, grated horseradish and garlic. Take a leaf, pop a scoop of trevally onto it, wrap and much. Yum. It’s a flavour bomb of silky, sweet, acidity and creaminess. We both go in for seconds. It’s a wondrous dish of new flavours and presentation.
The mezze kicks off with a woodfired halloumi. It’s wonderfully smoky, and thick slices are paired with punchy black olives, pickled green tomatoes. Its a great balance and one of my picks for the night.
For mains we chose yellowfin tuna. I am in heaven. Finally an order of seafood which is impressive in size, generosity of flavour and has the kind of oommph that meat goers regualarly get. It could rival a ham hock! It sits majestically on a bed of green beans loubia b’zeit, which translates to ‘green beans in oil. It’s a stewed dish of onions, garlic, and tomatoes zepped up zhoug – a delicious, spiced green sauce originating from Yemen including lemon, garlic, olive oil, chilies, and spices. Ms MS is not a fan of the stewed beans but I enjoy it.
A dish of roasted cauliflower is all suntanned and charry. But if there was comfort food in a bucket the orzo is it. Shavings of dried salty ricotta hide the unctuous depths below. Durum wheat orzo has a wonderful savoury bite from being cooked in chicken stock. A spoonful reveals chunks of charred corn. It’s a hug on a spoon, but I want a spade.
What we are Addicted to (DA Factor!) : Nour has established itself as a sophisticated dining spot for middle eastern food. I really can’t stop thinking about the trevally and that insanely delicious orzo. The banquets from $89 provide good value. It’s a spot best enjoyed with pals. The small bubbles of wood fired bread is absolutely delicious but you have to ask for it.
What we need to be more Addicted? : With signature cocktails from $22 and wine from $16 means that the bill can heat up quickly with a glass of chardonnay kicking off at $28. Overly enthusiastic staff need to just chill a little bit, or at least check before taking a plate within a nanosecond of placing a fork down! With flavours like these you want them to linger.
Nour, Shop 3, 490 Crown Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010
