Its an image which has graced many a coffee table book. On the outside, the Opera House is spellbinding (never more so lit up in red, white and blue). But inside is where magic happens, thanks to Peter Gilmore’s new restaurant Bennelong.
Tonkin Zulaikha Greer Architects have created a timbered room of worship as curved beams swoop into the roof, tones of ochre, earth and resin tables prepare you for an Australian walkabout. Tom Dixon’s tree-like MELT lamps create a dining canopy bathed in copper. We like this place. A LOT.
For a city a little tired of fine dining, Peter nails it. Three courses, all executed perfectly, plated with artistry plus service which can answer obscure questions. Go on, ask them why does the venison knife have the number 9.47 on its handle?
As the sun starts to set Gosset rose champagne partners beautifully with the most stunning carrot salad, it’s a ballet on a plate; poise, balance with constantly surprising swirls of roast purple carrot coils, amaranth, almonds and dots of sherry caramel amongst soft feta. The Lady Elliot Island Bug is literally too pretty to eat, you might like to just stare at it. Grilling it brings an aromatic sweetness paired with XO sauce, slices of radish and organic turnips love turns to lust. Mains are accompanied by a fresh salad of leaves and baby potatoes. Grass fed veal fillet looks like a glamorous fascinator as golden translucent fonds showcase smoked parsnip, mushrooms and hazelnuts. The roast dory is a joy of on the bone, buttery flesh, crispy skin and unami butter. Just beware the side dish displaying what looks like a perfectly carved cylinder of turnip which morphs into a hand towel when water is added.
Desserts are the modesty on the menu, flamboyant on the plate and palate. The Pavlova is a homage to the Opera House; reverse sails of crispy meringue create a temple hiding poached rhubarb under pillows of fluffy meringue cream. If there was a fight for the death, be in the ring with ‘Crème caramel vs mille-feuille’ there’s so much textural action – shards of caramel, salty caramel, milky soil, caramelised puff pastry, nitrogen frozen custard, almond and hazelnut praline it’s impossible to know where to start.
Guillaume’s departure from Bennelong kicked off a “who’s it going to be?” roundabout of suitors with our snow egg hero, Peter Gilmore proclaimed the winner. However it’s us who are the real winners…just a bread throw across the water from three hatted Quay. The only thing is the bread’s so delicious it’s unlikely there will be anything left.
Bennelong
Sydney Opera House
Bennelong Point, Sydney, NSW 2000
