You can tell a lot about a restaurant by how it starts your meal. At the Thai-influenced Moon in Darlinghurst, dinner begins with a candle. Or at least, something that looks like one. It’s actually duck fat and house-smoked ocean trout pâté, cleverly moulded into the shape of a stubby wax candle with a dancing flame. You spread the melting, smoky fat onto crisp bread shards, and suddenly you’re wondering why more meals don’t begin with edible firelight.
The dish sets the tone: elegant but not uptight, creative without needing to say so. Moon walks the line between modern Thai and fine dining, and it does so quietly. There’s no velvet rope, no hushed reverence. Just seriously good food served with confidence and a sense of play.
Exclamations all around as the edible candles appeared at tables. And here we were thinking it was all for the ambiance!
I’ve come to Moon after spotting it on the list with Open Table’s Experiences which lets restaurants offer unique, bookable events like chef’s tables, set menus, and wine tastings. It’s a way to stand out, attract new guests, and boost revenue. Diners get access to special moments beyond a standard meal, with easy booking and clear details.
One smart plate after another
The degustation ($119 per person, and worth every cent of it) isn’t a marathon. It’s a well-paced stroll through clever pairings and good ideas, all solidly grounded in flavour. A Thai-spiced duck tartlet with beetroot gel, puff pastry, citrus and radish is vibrant and neat. Then comes a soft egg custard cradled back into its original eggshell, floating in a tom kha gai broth that’s creamy, citrusy and bright, finished with chives and a sprinkle of tobiko. It’s the kind of dish you want more of, but there’s more of the good stuff coming.
Like a vegetarian ricotta and spinach wonton, swaddled in a bold tom yum sauce, and a serving of grilled corn and mushrooms that’s smoky and full of umami. Both are quiet overachievers, the kind of dishes that don’t shout but leave an impression.
A Thai hot beef soup follows, layered with chilli and lemongrass and a punch of acid. It’s the brothy pick-me-up you didn’t know you needed halfway through a degustation.
The steak section
Just when you think you’ve peaked, out comes a generous slab of Jack’s Creek Black Angus striploin, topped with Moon’s signature crab butter. The beef is cooked just right, but it’s the smear of butter that steals it…. salty, rich and full of sweet shellfish depth. Alongside is a scoop of charcoal-grilled bone marrow (optional), ready to be spooned out like meat jelly (in the best possible way), and a bowl of steamed Thai rice that, frankly, would be worth ordering on its own. It’s glossy and fragrant and tastes like someone cared about it. Which, clearly, someone did.
Save room for dessert
Dessert is simple but satisfying. A small collection of house-made ice creams and crumbly shortbread lands without fuss. It’s light, sweet, and not trying to prove anything. Just a nice ending, which by this point is all you want.
Where cocktails aren’t an afterthought
If you like your drinks pretty and balanced, order the Ms. Moon. It arrives looking like it belongs on a magazine cover and delivers on taste too, it was my favourite of the night, floral and citrusy, with enough body to stand up to the food. My partner enjoyed several glasses of the Hentley Farm Shiraz. Let Uber drive you home.
Service that hits the mark
Jackie runs the floor with the kind of hospitality that puts you instantly at ease. The service is professional without being polished within an inch of its life. There’s knowledge when you want it, banter if you’re open to it, and space when you don’t. No reciting of ingredient lists or hovering, just a calm confidence that makes the whole night feel like a treat.
More than a special occasion spot
Sure, Moon would be a great place to celebrate something. But it’s also the kind of restaurant that doesn’t need a reason. It’s thoughtful without being precious, smart without being stiff, and warm in a way you can’t fake. You can bring your parents, a date, your best friend or your foodiest mate, and all will leave happy.
There’s something quietly joyful about a place that takes its food seriously but still lets you laugh at the table. Moon gets that. And honestly? Dinner there is worth orbiting around; we’ll keep coming back. We can’t wait to see what they come up with next.
The Verdict
What we are Addicted to? The unfussy but excellent service, timing of the courses and presentation. We also love the small neighbourhood vibe of this spot that’s too good to gatekeep. And you can BYO, but why would you? What do we need to be more Addicted? – We’d love to see the inclusion of the chilled Spring Bay (TAS) oysters with the spiced squid ink, cream and avruga somehow included in the degustation. We tried them separately, and I still think about them like a long lost friend.
Restaurant Moon 346 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst (Sydney) NSW 2010 Hours: Weds – Sun 5:30pm – 10pm, closed Mon & Tues. For bookings: 0455 731 346 or hi@restaurantmoon.com.au
