What’s New and Notable? Pan Divino opens on a busy stretch of Crown Street. We’ve met these faces before – Chef Stefano Mondonico, (ex Bondi Fish, Pialligo Estate) led QT’s Gowings winning a Hat in the SMH Good awards 2023. I remember trying to concentrate on his explanation of creating an Australian sustainable version of Bacalao using blue eye, but being distracted by his passion for creativity and being ridiculously handsome. He is joined by chef Adam Bryce, (ex Doyles, North Bondi Fish), and restaurant manager Gregoire Gamand, (ex Paddo Inn and North Bondi Fish). You can feel comradery and genuine respect that these guys have for each other.
The Vibe – It’s 6.30pm on a Wednesday night and we are the first to arrive. This is early for the night lovin’ Surry Hills folk and its buzzing by 8pm. The mood is romantic and casual, there are groups of friends and couples chatting and drinking. White tablecloths grace tables whilst music from a gramophone era lends an air of nostalgia and elegance.
Chef Stefano 
Entrance on Crown Street
The Setting and Design – The honey gold painted restored 1912 heritage-listed building has so much charm. Cream walls are decorated with historic art, vintage framed photographs and a grandmother clock commands attention by the copper light illuminated kitchen. To our right a brick clad bar has a few seats, begging for a glass of prosecco, conversation and antipasti. The 75-seat restaurant is divided by a square arch, leading into a pretty covered courtyard which will be a dedicated crudo bar and I can already imagine the draw card of summer brunches.
Service & Arrival – Bellissimo! We are warmly welcome and have a little wander around the venue. It’s like stepping back in time and across continents. The drinks menu has six types of Negroni, four spritz and an inspired range of signature cocktails. I opt for a Menebrea and my dining companion, Rachel is already sipping on a Baccio di Limone, of Limencello and 42 Below Vodka.
The Food – It’s Italian with contemporary touches. The focus is on high quality ingredients using age old techniques of smoking, grilling, curing and respecting the produce. This is a kitchen that goes to the lengths of making their own pasta, bottarga, ricotta and even smokes their potatoes for a mind blowing gnocchi.
King prawn spaghetti 
Bruschetta
The menu is split into antipasti, crudo, pasta and griglia (grill) and contori. We start with the prettiest of bites. Toasted soldiers of bread are topped with lashings of whipped ricotta, roasted capsicum, white anchovies and basil leaves. A robust lick of olive oil blends them into an Italian flag of flavour. Four perfect boats of witlof cradle buttery slices of Ora King Salmon. The horseradish mayo cuts through its richness and the crunch of the lettuce makes this our crudo of choice.
Any restaurant with a Josper oven has the edge in my book. A plate of cheerful smoked cherry tomatoes in a red wine vinaigrette is dotted with ricotta salta. It’s an unusual side.
Long chunky tubes of gnocchi have a delicious almost chewy texture. The potatoes have been smoked (wot? yes!) and these are delicious on their own. However, doused by a wonderfully messy crown of soft strands of 12 hour smoked riverine short rib ragu its a power dish. The pecorino topped king prawn spaghetti, is cooked al dente with a perfect bite. It’s furled with a house made bottarga sauce. Stefano cures the mullet roe for 7 days and then air dries each for two weeks. The star is a seven day cured salted blue eye trevalla. Rarely is a fish main given the same generosity as a large steak. It’s simply majestic. The creamy flesh is combined with salty caperberries.
The wine list is a fun romp through small grower, regional wines thanks to the keen eye of award-winning sommelier Royston Lau. A glass of Domíni Veneti Soave Classico rounds out the evening
What we are Addicted to (DA Factor!) – A restaurant should be the sum of its parts but rarely is. Pan Divino oozes charm and each dish stands out on its own, with many elements house made which is the kind of attention to detail not found at this price point. Service is thoughtful and knowledgeable.
What do we need to be more Addicted? – The wine list is a little short but is being built out. The rear garden is still being finished and we can’t wait to come back to see what weekend offerings they are up to.
Pan Divino, 560 Crown Street, Surry Hills
