When co-owners playwright/director (Wendy Beckett) and an acclaimed chef (Jeff Schroeter, ex Bayswater Brasserie, Bistro Moncur) came together to open a restaurant, it was perhaps the best meeting of worlds. Food has something to say, producers have their story and chef’s are curating their narrative and creating a playbook to engage our senses. More often we book a table, pick a dish, eat and leave – it’s functional. But what if there was another way?

Decades ago Darling Mills made this iconic space in Glebe the envy of every food critic. Farm to plate wasn’t a fad, it was a way of life, a way to cook. When they shut down, a succession of Indian restaurants took over. Some good, some remarkable, but until Beckett’s arrival, like phoenix from the flames, never has this grande dame of dining been in such reverent, honourable hands.

If this sounds all a bit romantic and gushing, that’s because this restaurant is remarkable on so many levels. As a local, I often describe it as dining in a wine cellar or cave, our own very special Lord of the Rings moment, you step inside the entrance tunnel and the present world slips away.

Beckett’s is a multi chamber experience. The first stop is the welcome and entrance. Just beyond the door we are helped with our coats, which are placed on a rack with some very expensive looking apparel, then we are escorted into the bar area. To our right is a grand piano. It’s Sunday evening and the ivories are being caressed by a pianist as its soft tones reverberate through the restaurant. We return the next day to finish off our meal by ordering a few deserts.

Could life be any more perfect? Relaxing on velveteen caramel bucket chairs, sipping a chilli martini thanks to one of the world’s best bartenders, Charlie Ainsbury. I am dipping my spoon into a rhubarb and thyme creme brulee, following my percussion contribution with the tap tap, tapping, crack! of the sugary caramelised coating.

The night before, we arrive and the place is buzzing and beautifully dressed. The soft arches of the ceiling, the open brickwork, the glow from the table lights, we are otherworldly transported into yesteryear glamour. Moulin Rouge meets Hobbitworld. Sitting at the back by the kitchens we have a birds eye view on it all. Tables are elegantly dressed in white linens, glassware is selected by the wine varietal and the team are dressed immaculately white shirts and black waistcoats. Formal and decidedly elegant.

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We start with a few shared starters. The plate of Archie Rose Gin & beetroot house cured Mt Cook salmon is a work of art. The salmon isn’t just blushed, it’s fully loved up with deep burgundy tones. It’s topped with a tumble of crushed cucumber, shaved fennel salad, micro herbs and Yarra Valley salmon pearls which pop and fizz in the mouth. It’s rich and delicious.

Charred Spencer Gulf king prawns are glossy from warm prawn butter and ease out of their shells beautifully. The porcini and spinach arancini are tiny balls of childhood fun, simply dipped in a parsley emulsion, it’s hard to moderate eating these slowly. It’s what arancini should be, but often isn’t.

However, it is the French Onion soup that steals the show. Outwardly it could appear as the underdog, but it’s their prima ballerina moment. The broth is deeply flavoured, rich and unctuous whilst the slim croutons keep their attitude thanks to a layer of crisped, melted Gruyère cheese. The spoon goes in and picks up golden strands of sweet goodness, followed by the savoury stock and a crunch from the cheesy cruotons. Applause, curtains please.

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Second Act: For mains Duck à l’Orange ($48) is a handsomely Grimaud duck breast, its roasted pink medium rare and joined by sautéed English spinach, shitaki mushrooms, toasted pistachio and is brightened by a Sunrise lime gin, orange cumquat glaze. Meaty, citrusy, savoury all in one plate. The Coral Trout Fillet Line caught ($49) is appearing on a lot of menus now. The delicate fillet is pan seared, and it lies on a light vegetable Provençal sauce with fioretto cauli-blossom, sauce vierge and two pan roasted baby tomatoes which explode deliciously in the mouth.

Beckett’s has launched ‘Clubhouse Events’ for those who want to revel in more wine and food experiences, from Town & Country Goose degustation to Theatre vignette No.5 “Blue” by Thomas Weatherall. The surprises keep coming.

This is a restaurant for lovers who appreciate the art of performance, fine food, wines, service, respect of terrior and a return to that New York state of mind. It’s ultimately a romantic home for those who appreciate fine dining and an escape from reality. No VR goggles needed.

Beckett’s, 134A Glebe Point Road Glebe. See website for the latest on Clubhouse Events
Hours: Open Wednesday to Sunday from 5pm